Skin Product Development

This 3-day course is intended for individuals engaged in research, development, and evaluation of active skin care products. Individuals new to the development of skin products, whether experienced in R&D or not, will find that the course provides a comprehensive introduction. It may also be useful to those in sales, marketing and manufacturing, as well as the production of raw materials for use in topical products, who wish to learn about the goals, problems and trends in development. Those interested particularly in drug-containing dermatologicals should also consult the description of an alternate course, Dermatological Product Development.

Learning Objectives

Upon completion of this course, you will:

• Understand modern concepts that contribute to success in skin product development
• Know the major factors in topical delivery
• Understand applications of major delivery systems
• Understand testing procedures to monitor product performance, safety and efficacy
• Be able to choose preservatives, antioxidants, humectants and other critical formulation components
• Be aware of worldwide cosmetic regulatory requirements
• Appreciate the causes of skin aging and approaches to treatment
• Understand beneficial use of “natural” ingredients
• Be able to approach skin product design taking into account the relevant biological, physicochemical and practical considerations.

Course Description

The various aspects of skin product development are considered from different points of view, as provided by the diverse backgrounds of the course faculty. The topics considered include designation of product goals and formulation design with reference to product performance, factors affecting delivery of actives to the skin, delivery systems, current regulatory issues, methods for assessing efficacy and toxicity of ingredients and finished products, selection of critical ingredients and use of active naturals. A scheduled workshop encourages questions and facilitates interaction among the participants and course faculty.

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COURSE AGENDA

FIRST DAY

Greetings and introduction
From the top down
• Aspects of product quality
• Formulation goals
• Properties of the stratum corneum
Methods for evaluating ingredient efficacy and toxicity
• Definitions and requirements
• Cell culture and other models
• Human studies

Safety and efficacy testing of skin products
• Preclinical testing
• Noninvasive human studies
• Claims support protocols
• Streamlining testing
• Internet-based clinical trials
Introduction to skin permeation
• Methods and models
• Skin factors affecting permeation
• Permeant properties affecting transport
SECOND DAY
Skin delivery and delivery systems
• Strategies to optimize delivery to skin
• Penetration enhancers
• Traditional systems
Critical components of skin products-1
• Preservatives
• Anti-oxidants and other stabilizers
• Sunscreens
Aging Skin
• Intrinsic and extrinsic factors
• Clinical and subclinical changes
• Skin care for healthy aging
Active naturals for skin care
• Identification and selection
• Supplements and topicals
• Establishing safety and benefit
Workshop
• Discussion of current issues
THIRD DAY
Skin delivery systems
• Polymer-based disperse systems
• Spongelike and capsular microparticles
• Liposomes and niosomes
• Patches
Critical components of skin products-2
• Moisturizers
• Botanicals
• New ingredients
The changing regulatory landscape
• Regulatory considerations in product development
• Global influences and harmonization
Wrap-up and course evaluation